NongBu is closed but continues to shape city's food scene
By
Sharon Yeo
Korean restaurant NongBu is now permanently closed, but its legacy of introducing Edmontonians to a broader array of Korean dishes will live on.
NongBu announced its closure in September, after nearly a decade in business just south of Whyte Avenue. It received many accolades after it opened in 2015, including Best New Restaurant in 2016 from Avenue Edmonton (now Edify).
Owner John Ahn was inspired to open NongBu to share the Korean food he was exposed to growing up, as prepared by his mother. "One of my big motivating factors was the lack of variety of Korean food in Edmonton," Ahn told Taproot. "I wanted to show people home cooking, and that Korean food could be more than bibimbap and bulgogi — old-style cooking, cooking without additives, with better ingredients, and making everything fresh."
When NongBu opened, it was originally set up as a Korean knife cut noodle restaurant. "We were making fresh noodles every day, and I worked on a series of broths," Ahn said. "But no one was ordering the noodles. Everyone was ordering the sides."
Over time, NongBu expanded its street food offerings, and Ahn said he held out for four years before making the difficult decision to add bibimbap and bulgogi to the menu. "It made us successful but it broke my heart that it was all people were ordering," Ahn said.
In hindsight, he admitted staff could have better explained the ingredients being used, and how the dishes should be enjoyed. "For our lettuce wraps, we were bringing in soybean paste that was being made by nuns on the coast of Korea," Ahn said. "They would dehydrate it for us and it came by boat, and we would rehydrate it. But we were throwing it away because people wouldn't eat it. People thought it was like ketchup. In hindsight we should have gotten our servers to teach people."
NongBu nonetheless paved the way for more Korean establishments offering more than bibimbap and bulgogi. This includes places focused on Korean street food, such as Gangnam Street Food, which first opened in 2019, late-night drinking spots such as Hanjan, opened in 2017, and JMT Korean Cuisine, which opened in 2023, and most recently, Sang, offering hanjeongsik, a meal characterized by side dishes.