Industry vet opens Little Wolf in former Three Boars space
A chef with more than 20 years of experience just opened the first restaurant of his own in the former Three Boars space in Garneau.
"This space had this magic to it, where we didn't have to leave Edmonton to get a more global dining experience," Little Wolf Restaurant proprietor Shaun Hicks told Taproot of his new digs at 8424 109 Street NW. "My first experiences here really gave me a place to go to be excited as someone who worked in the industry."
This is Hicks's first time owning a restaurant, but he is far from green. He ran the Sugarbowl when its first ovens went in around 20 years ago. Since then, he's worked at Woodwork and did two stints at Three Boars (including opening its now-closed sister restaurant Wishbone). Most recently, he served as chef at La Petite Iza.
Hicks said Little Wolf will be "adjacent" to the Three Boars experience he loved. He is focused on internationally inspired small plates on an ever-rotating menu, plus great beer and cocktails.
"The menu itself is based on its ability to be transient," he said. "I haven't really spent too much time getting incredibly attached to anything in particular, but I do really want to make something along the lines of white beans and tomatoes that are roasted with peppers and a fried egg."
Three Boars closed in 2020 when COVID-19 lockdowns began, partly because its concept wouldn't translate well to delivery. Owners Brayden Kozak and Brian Welch pivoted to Detroit-style pizza under the banner of High Dough. That concept began in the Three Boars space but now stands alone at 7341 104 Street NW.
"A lot of people who would come here late at night after they finished their shifts across town," Hicks said of Three Boars's industry-folk clientele. "That feeling of loss of community is what excited me to investigate the space and come back to it."
While Hicks doesn't foresee a pandemic-forced closure for Little Wolf, he wants to make sure it is financially resilient — while still being delicious.
"I feel like there's some insulation that I'm bringing to the table with this space. Some of it is working with a different style of farmer," he said. "Going more for vegetarian, going more for pulses and grains, and looking for things that are really affordable and raw ingredients that we can turn into something here."