Why Ramneek Singh is on a butter chicken odyssey
Ramneek Singh may feel differently about butter chicken than some do.
"I'm gonna be honest, I thought it was trash, I thought it was very bland," Singh, a food reviewer who publishes thoughts on Facebook and Instagram, told Taproot about his first bites of the dish.
Singh has embarked on what he describes as a year-long Butter Chicken Odyssey. It's a project meant to allow him to connect to the dish by trying it at roughly 50 different Edmonton restaurants. But it's also a way, Singh said, for him to interrogate his treatment as a Punjabi "other" and its culinary and cultural implications.
At the core is butter chicken itself. "Over time, I realized that it kind of placated and catered to Western clientele — or people that were just brought up here (as) East Indian that couldn't tolerate the spice because they never developed that tolerance," Singh said.
So, how and why does one decide to go on a butter chicken odyssey?
The idea, Singh said, comes four years after he had a mind-blowing version of the dish at the now-closed Curry Vibes on Jasper Avenue. Ordering opened his eyes. "The owner asked me: 'Do you want me to make it spicy?'" Singh recalls. "I was dumbfounded that that was an option. At that point, I knew that butter chicken was our dish. Our genes are wired for (spice); our taste buds are wired for this."
So far this year, from the Strathcona to Kameyosek neighbourhoods, and beyond, Singh's odyssey has seen him try 13 of Edmonton's butter chicken offerings. He has offered each a score out of five. The scores range from zero for Namaste India to 4.7 for Pakwan Indian Cuisine. A forthcoming review for Masala Tree in Hays Ridge is the first to include a perfect five, Singh said. Each review comes with an Indian or Pakistani song pairing, and a long, detailed caption.
Along the way, he's had delightful bites and disappointments alike. From chicken that "tastes like rubber," "store-bought" gravy, and gastrointestinal distress, Singh said he suffers for his art for good reasons. "I'm fiercely and unapologetically Punjabi," he said. "Other bloggers that don't have my background can go to a restaurant and tell you about the food, but they can't tell you about the music that's playing. They can't tell you about the music videos. They can't tell you about the language that's spoken, or possibly even the deities that are on display. I can do that."
The odyssey will also see Singh appear in the (slightly fictionalized) Mill Woods episode of the forthcoming documentary series Eating Edmonton, funded by STORYHIVE. The show focuses on the variety of Edmonton's cuisine, how food defines different neighbourhoods, and the experience of its creators as first-generation Asian Canadians (an experience Singh said he shares). The series is hosted by Salvador Garcia (a.k.a. Fat Sal), Jessica Truong (a.k.a. Tan's Daughter), and Cynthia Lo (a.k.a. Food Critter).
"I play a character that hates butter chicken," Singh said.