Emerging chef brings Peruvian flair to Dolly's Cocktail Bar
A recently graduated chef is leading his first kitchen at the new restaurant concept from The Common.
Joshua Nhan graduated from NAIT's Culinary Arts program this year and is already running the kitchen at Dolly's Cocktail Bar. With guidance from executive chef Winnie Chen, he built a menu that honours his Peruvian heritage.
"Learning from my mom, and learning all these different dishes, really makes me feel much more connected to my roots and much more of an individual in this Western world," Nhan told Taproot. "One of the main focuses for me was, how do I turn Peruvian food into plates that are cute and colourful?"
Dolly's opened at 9902 109 Street NW in August, replacing the exceptionally popular past occupant, Fu's Repair Shop, which moved to a bigger space on Jasper Avenue in July. Chen is the mind behind Fu's and now serves as executive chef for both that restaurant and Dolly's. She helped Nhan turn his creative vision into a robust menu that has profitability and different dietary needs in mind.
"I was already trying to shift into more of a culinary director (role) for The Common group," Chen said. "I know Josh is immensely talented and the flavours he creates are amazing. I want him to flourish creatively. But then also … we need to commercialize it."
The resultant menu includes high-tea-inspired canapés, seafood-heavy cold plates, and hot dishes such as empanadas, which riff on a Nhan family recipe. They are perhaps his signature menu item.
"They started with my mom and then they kind of evolved. They're just the recipe that I do have a lot of fun with," he said.
Nhan, 32, spent much of the pandemic as one-third of Nena's Empanadas, a takeout-and-delivery operation that he ran alongside his mother and father, Raquel "Nena" Nhan and David Nhan. In 2022, he and pal Richard Wood released an Edmonton Heritage Council-funded documentary on how Nena's immigration journey from Peru intersected with her culinary life. The empanadas on the Dolly's menu were named in her honour.