DRTY brings Filipino ice cream to Edmonton
By
Sharon Yeo
in the
Food Roundup
The profile of Filipino cuisine has continued to rise in Edmonton over the last several years, thanks to upstart businesses like Filistix, Kanto 98 St., and Yelo'd, as well as with the arrival of Filipino fast-food giant Jollibee in 2019. Now DRTY Ice Cream is adding an additional cultural touchstone for the local Filipino community with its take on sorbetes, or Filipino ice cream.
DRTY (pronounced "dirty") is the brainchild of Abby Ulanimo, who is half-Filipino and was born and raised in Canada. In 2019, she visited the Philippines for the first time and had a reverential initial encounter with a sorbetero (ice cream vendor).
"You can imagine it's plus forty degrees, you're so hot, and you hear this bell and when you turn around this guy has delicious frozen treats," said Ulanimo. "The sorbetero brings those feelings of relief and joy."
Ulanimo explained that sorbetes are typically made with coconut milk or cassava, as ingredients typically found in ice cream like eggs, milk, and cream are expensive in the Philippines. Sorbeteros, lacking access to refrigeration, would make fresh batches of sorbetes by hand daily, sold out of roving wooden carts.
Throughout its development, DRTY has gone through some recipe changes to adapt to the different context. "When we first started, we were using a cassava base," said Ulanimo. "But then we found that cassava flour cannot hold its integrity in the freezer. This wouldn't be a problem in the Philippines because their batches are never frozen overnight." DRTY has since adapted to using plant-based stabilizers in most of its ice cream flavours.
DRTY's name is inspired by the history of sorbetes in the Philippines. Ulanimo shared that when larger corporations began stocking grocery stores with their ice cream, those companies made efforts to brand sorbetes as "dirty" to discourage people from patronizing sorbeteros.
"Our name is such a conversation starter," said Ulanimo. "We are very passionate about highlighting the tradition and the culture behind sorbetes. If I can teach someone something, my job is done."